email
manfred@tilt.com.au GREG
HOWDEN SCULPTURE Sculptures
of Greyhounds and delicate nudes -Artist: Greg Howden
-These "Duco" finished fibreglass dogs are first modelled in clay, a
plaster waste mould is made, laminated, cast, and extensively hand finished, requiring
more than 200 working hours to complete. All dogs are One off Originals.
ABOVE: SC48 -SCULPTURE -Sagacious Audacity Hound -1977-
LIFE SIZE (Grey-Hound)
ABOVE: SC46 -SCULPTURE -Transcended Hound -1978- LIFE SIZE
(Grey-Hound)
ABOVE: SC49 -SCULPTURE -Sagacious Benevo-Hound -1977- LIFE
SIZE (Grey-Hound)
ABOVE: SC47 -SCULPTURE -Sagacious Hound -1977- LIFE SIZE
(Grey-Hound)
| Well
I don't have any greyhounds, just various assistants over the years with big black
noses and waggy tails but I liked the greyhound shape and what better place to
photograph these guys than a greyhound farm.And this was the basis of these sculptures.
Working from the pictures taken they were first made in clay. Mould making is
quite intricate and you need to first work out where the seams will be so you
can not only remove the mould from the clay without any damage but also how you
are going to join the fibreglass cast from the inside. If you want to re-use the
mould then you either have to have more pieces or consider a flexible mould making
material such as silicon which is a more expensive and involved mould. For the
greyhound sculptures what is referred to as a "waste mould" was used.
That is that once the inside of the mould is prepared, laminated and "joined
from within" the plaster mould is broken with a hammer and the fibreglass
cast is cleaned. Next the seams are filled and chased. The finish I chose is similar
to how you would hand finish a car. I was able to gain some useful hints from
a friend who was a panel beater and spray painter. Undercoat is first applied
followed by spray on primer and a guide coat is applied after that to enable the
hand finish by working your way down with abrasive papers you can visually check
for smoothness. The finish coats are sprayed wet on wet and at varying intervals,
allowed to cure dry and cut and polished. I have estimated that the entire process
for each of these greyhounds to be around 200 hours each. To
make a bronze the process is quite different. Commonly known as lost wax. this
series comes initially from one small clay upright standing nude. An intermediate
mould from this was made in concrete, another cast made and from this it was reworked
and a master silicon mould made and here begins the process of "lost wax"
technique. A basic but detailed mould for a standing figure is now ready for the
pouring of hot wax. There are different grades of wax available ranging from
very flexible to hard with different shrinkage and other characteristics. The
pouring temperature of the wax has to be quite precise in order in order to produce
a fault free cast free of air bubbles and defects. The flexible silicon mould
is supported by a plaster key mould sectioned and assembled. Once the wax has
cooled I begin to manipulate the basic figure in to another position, working
the wax extensively by adding and carving heated wax eliminating the distortions
and finding the correct balance for the figure. The wax is finally smoothed using
an abrasive material and turps. Sprues are carefully attached to the wax for support
and pouring of the bronze, the wax cast is encased in a ceramic material. Placed
in an oven the wax evaporates or is "lost" leaving a cavity for the
hot molten bronze (1000 C) to be poured. Once the bronze has cooled the ceramic
mould is broken away, sprues are cut off, any defects are TIG welded filed, chased
and polished working down from course abrasives to very fine. In the case of the
natural bronze finish the surface is extensively polished before a UV resistant
sealant is applied. In producing the black/brown/green marble like appearance
a "patina" is applied and this involved considerable research to get
this right. Fortunately by means of the web I was able communicate with a very
helpful lady who runs a very large fine art foundry in Montana USA who proved
to be a valuable guide (and has a bunch of deer and elk running around in her
back yard I might add.) In preparation for the patina the bronze cast is first
cleaned by means of air abrasion or fine "glass beads" and this provides
a key for the patina chemicals which are applied and worked to a cold or hot surface
respectively of the finish required. There are also some very important guidelines
to be observed as to which chemicals are used as "bronze disease" can
actually be introduced to the cast if ignorance by the artistisan prevails and
we don't want that to happen do we especially when creating an art media that
should last for centuries and beyond. |
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